Looking out onto a field of perfectly rolled hay bales is a beautiful sight to see. It is even more impactful if you are the one that baled them. You can feel yourself filled with pride in a job well done.
When it comes to making the perfect hay bale, there are many steps to take care of. Things like being at the proper moisture content, the maturity of the forages, and the settings on the machines you will be using all play a part in how your hay bales will turn out.
But how can you get all the factors to mesh together to produce your desired result? Well, today, I will go over the four main steps you can use to make the perfect hay bale.
Moisture is key
The first step is always the most important when going over any strategy. By getting this step right, you can build off with the others falling into place. When it comes to baling hay, the first step to look at is ensuring that the cut hay is at the correct moisture percentage.
The moisture content should be in the 16% to 20% range, depending on the size of the bale that you are going with. Small square bales can be baled at 20% or less, Large round bales need to be at 18% or less, and large square bales can not be more than 16%.
Finding the correct moisture percentage to bale is a very delicate balance. If you bale at a higher percentage, you will lose more dry matter content due to heating and molding. However, if you bale at a higher percentage, you will lose much of the nutrient content because of leaf loss.
One way that you can reduce dry matter loss is to use hay crimpers and crushers. These will minimize curing time in the swath, overall exposure to weather, leaf shattering, and respiration loss.
Your moisture content problems are not needed once the bale has been made. It is also essential to prevent moisture, such as rain, from getting into the hay bale after it has been baled. The way that you can avoid this from happening is in how you store the bales.
Have the right size windrows.
A large part of having a perfect hay bale is ensuring that the windows are the correct size. The right size, of course, will all depend on the size of the baler that you will be using.
The windrows should be evenly spread out across the chamber of the baler. The way that you will do this is by having your hay rake set to the proper settings.
Creating a correctly sized window will ensure the same amount of hay is under each belt. Your hay bales will come out level even when you do this. Another thing this will do is make sure that your bales are tight, which will reduce the likelihood of moisture getting into the inside of your bale.
Having the windrows at the correct width and your baler set to the right height is essential. The pickup part on the front of your baler should flow evenly with the contours of the land. If it is set too high, you will not get all of the hay on the ground. If it is too low, you risk damaging the equipment or picking up rocks in your hay bales.
When it comes to making windrows, there are three types of equipment to use: Parallel bar, Wheel, and rotary.
- Parallel Bar: sometimes referred to as twin rakes or basket rakes. This type is better able to handle wetter, heavier forages.
- Wheel: These are the most common here in North America. Their simplicity and lower costs make them an attractive option for most producers. A drawback is that they do not perform well with wetter, heavier forages.
- Rotary: Like the parallel bar, this type can handle wetter, heavier forages. Though they are less capable of high field speeds.
Make sure the hay baler is set right.
Just because you have the equipment set right when you start does not mean that it is the end. Continue to monitor bale density in the chamber while you are running and make adjustments as needed.
Ensuring that the tension is correct is vital as well. While baling, you may have to make adjustments to your twine or wrap to keep tension just right. You can tell if the tension is incorrect that the bale will appear to expand once it is out of the chamber.
You will need to use the correct baler density settings to ensure that your bales are tight. Another way that you can ensure bale density is to make sure that the chamber is full. It is not uncommon to make readjustments in the field while you are baling.
A common problem when baling is low density. A visual sign of low density is that one end of the hay bale will be tighter than the other. If this happens to you, there is no need to worry; it happens to everyone.
If you are not sure about how to fix the problem with low density in your bales, the folks over at haymanager.com have some tips that you can follow:
- Increase the target force. If the target force is too high, you must decrease it or use stronger twine.
- Consider installing additional side hay resistors on each side of the compression doors. Most experts recommend adding three to each side of the doors in addition to the resistors that are already installed.
- Operate the baler between 30 to 60 strokes per bale. If you have difficulty staying within this range, you may need to rake more hay into the windrow. Other remedies include shifting gears up or decreasing PTO speed.
Properly store your hay bales.
Now that you have created your perfect hay bales, how you store them can make all the difference. If bales are not stored correctly, you can lose up to 25% of the dry matter content of your hay. Along with the DM, improper storage can also decrease the overall digestibility.
The moisture percentage during baling will determine how long you can store them. Store them early enough, and you will lose a significant portion to molding. Not to mention you run the risk of the bales combusting from the increase in heat.
Hay baled with less than 22% moisture should be stored for less than 30 days.
The internal temperature of the hay bale will also tell you when you can store too. The internal temperature of the bale should be no more than 120 degs when stored inside. If the temperature gets above 170 degs, you run the chance of the bales combusting.
Whether you are storing the bales inside or outside, there are things that you can do to prevent dry matter and digestibility losses. Things like putting them on well-drain soil and keeping enough distance between them are just a couple of steps that you can take. If you are interested in learning more about what you can do, I talked about that in a previous article, “5 rules for proper hay storage”.
